the lost pieces

Here are a few pieces I did for Organic that didn't make it to the show.

They are a bit more complicated, super textural, and require closures, so they

just didn't work out in the end. So it goes.

I would love to get my hands on my work sooner rather later, this way I can take

proper photographs. The following photos were taken with my cellphone or my laptop,

in order to document my progress.

Perhaps I can team up with photographer/graphic artist Chelsey Culmann and

model/stylist Emily Theobald again for this one... but anyhow, here they are:

Motorcycle jacket knit in Icelandic Loopi.

This is another sweater that I knit all-one-piece, on the 3 foot needles. I figured out

short rowing (by hand, I had only done this on machine before) at the hem, this way

the top layer when wrapped around is shorter than the bottom. 2x2 start, works into

rice stitch on the front, the back contains a series of column-like ribs that eventually

lead into an aran cable design. Jersey construction in set-in sleeves with a twisted 1x1 hem.

It needed a snap here, this way you have the option of wearing it closed up like this,

or with the flap down, like in the previous photos.

You can see that short-rowing curve quite well in this photo.

This neckline would have been closed with fur hooks to complete the jacket.

Seamless, circular knit jersey dress in lace Shetland.

Wool roving in two colors were knit in to create texture/tweedy pattern as well.

I began with a garter stitch start on size 5.5 needles. I would knit, I think it was just about

20-30 courses, in one needle size, then size up to the next. I ended with a size 10 needle.

This technique allows the stitch to get looser and larger as it progresses. Since it does

however, the fabric would expand and become wider as I increased the size of the needle.

To account for this, and to keep the dress nice and tight, I would have to decrease a

number of stitches per needle size increase. It was knit in the round, opened up to shape

the armholes, and then was re-connected at the shoulder, where I continued to

knit in the round for the turtle neck. So, the entire thing is seamless. Sleeves set-in.

Still not sure how I figured this out so nicely, but it did work...

Running aran cable down the CB eventually opens up at the shoulders.

I thought this looked really beautiful. In the end, it was a bit to short for good modern

taste, and I agree with that. Should have been 5 inches longer... next time I'll get it.

Button-back cardigan knit in a mix of Bartlett tubular wool and Hud. Valley Shetland.

At the first fitting, one of the models called this the "boyfriend sweater", since you

need another person to get in and out of it... tehe I thought that was sweet.

Anyhow, this one was the only sweater with seams. I had a side seam in there, and

simply knit the back longer than the front. It begins with a twisted 1x1 hem, then progresses

into a painting of jersey and purl stitches. I did wet-felted elbow patches, which were

made individually, then hand stitched on, then needle felted in place.

Also, I figured out button holes!

Wet-felted elbow patch up against the heavy texture of the knit.

These were temporary buttons just to hold the place.

It would have looked great with some crude bone/shell buttons or something.

Here's a close up of that cloud-like wet-felted elbow patch..

(I'm going to try and make this one of the last posts on this stuff, I hope your not

getting sick of it!)

vogue: details/candids

I increased needle size as I knit from a size 5.5 to 10,

that's why it appears to be tight knit at hem, and loosens up as it progresses.

http://www.vogue.com/collections/fall-2011/organic-by-john-patrick/review/

key notes

12-gore lace skirt-- How incredibly romantic is this?

(I slipped into this skirt during our first fitting and it absolutely is

the most beautifully-fitting piece I've ever had the pleasure of wearing.)

Wool plaid suit tucked into leather J. Hunter boots.

(Our show's sponsor)

One of my pieces--

A little jersey tank/vest knit in the round. Garter stitch at the start, both front and back

eventually shape into the thin straps. Wool roving knit-in as I worked to create texture.

Materials-- lace shetland wool/wool roving from the Hudson Valley.

This chiffon fabric, seen once more in the collection, was dyed naturally with henna and nuts.

My piece-- Cropped turtle neck sweater knit in the round. The stitches shift throughout

the body from a twisted 1x1 start into uneven jersey/purl stripes, garter stitch,

bobble/knotted stitches and 2x2 in sleeves/turtle neck. I knit roving into the

piece as I worked and also needle-felted the finished sweater.

Materials-- Icelandic loopi/shetland wool roving from the Hudson Valley.

Admiral's coat-- Quilted faux fur, made with wool fabric from Draper Mill in

Massachusetts, a textile mill founded in the nineteenth century.

not fussy.

This wool cape coat was dyed with onion skins.

Worn over a leather tunic top and baggy-fit pant.

My piece-- Fisherman's cable knit sweater.

This piece was also knit seamless in-the-round. Twisted 1x1 hem on body and sleeves.

Material-- Shetland wool from the Hudson Valley.

Worn over layered slip dresses.

Like a dream, seriously... a vivid, emotionally-charged dream of the best sort.

Leather gaucho short worn with Organic knit top and these rocker Hunter boots.

The Look--

Long trench coat worn with a paisley button down top and old-timey boxer shorts.

Return of the matching sets, perfect timing.

My lovely grandma, who was able to attend the presentation, turned to me and said this

is exactly what she would wear to work everyday in the 50's. Stunning, yeh?

Velvet shorts worn with tunic top and thermal sweater.

The high socks worn throughout the collection are quite brilliant as well, really,

thanks to the styling of Lauren Goodman.

My favorite look--

Sleeveless button down cotton top worn half-tucked into these little lace shorts. And of course,

this amazing burgundy blazer, worn belted round the waist with an African Masai beaded belt.

My piece-- another one of those little knit tanks. Hud. Valley lace shetland.

Draper Mill wool fabric translated into an oversized hooded jacket.

Tough girl leather shorts.

My final piece-- Which was the first piece I knit up, also my first stab at proper intarsia.

Navajo intarsia patterned sweater coat, knit all-in-one piece on 3 foot needles.

Three series of pattern, and no triangle is exactly the same. I aimed to create a shape

more like a mountain peak, rather than a harsh geometrical/angular shape.

2x2 neck trim linked on, also 2x2 at hem of body. The construction of the set-in

sleeves are mostly jersey, with 3 stripes of purl on each, then transferring into rib finish.

Interior/exterior needle felting upon finishing the piece.

Worn with my personal favorite slip dress, with black lace trims.

Pretty incredible, I really have to say.

I am so grateful and thankful for every moment of this experience.